![]() ![]() ![]() He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. ![]() Youthful folly - he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui - is served up with rueful humor. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. It immerses the listener in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. A bookish boy and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter.īarbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses - off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. ![]() Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. To initiates it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer.īarbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |